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Christian Louboutin poses with a pair of stilettos called
Christian Louboutin poses with a pair of stilettos called “Siamese” that he produced in collaboration with David Lynch.
Most designers learn their craft in the ateliers of more seasoned masters, but shoe designer Christian Louboutin found his calling as a 17-year-old apprentice in the dressing rooms of Paris’ famous cabaret the Folies Bergère. “I would watch the girls going up and down the stairs with these very heavy headdresses on, and they never looked at their shoes,” he says. “That’s where I learned that shoes are all about posture and proportion.”

Showgirls of all kinds–from Tina Turner to Nicole Kidman–are still an inspiration for Louboutin, 44, whose instantly recognizable red-soled stilettos have become de rigueur on the red carpet and among Hollywood’s A-list crowd. “He is the foremost shoe designer in the world,” says Valerie Steele, director of the museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, where his designs were the subject of a recent retrospective, “Sole Desire.”

Christian Louboutin spent the early years of his career designing shoes for some of fashion’s biggest names, including Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent and Maud Frizon. In 1992 he opened up his own shop at the end of a picturesque 19th century Parisian arcade. He still runs his business from that Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau address, but now his shoes are sold in 46 countries around the world. He has 14 boutiques in cities such as New York, Los Angeles, Las Vegas and London, and he plans to open six more next year in places like Singapore, Jakarta and Beijing. He counts Oprah, Sarah Jessica Parker, Cameron Diaz, Katie Holmes and hundreds of other Hollywood stars among his loyal clientele.

Christian Louboutin is just as solicitous of his less famous customers. At a recent personal appearance at Saks Fifth Avenue in New York City, he canceled his flight back to Paris in order to spend another two hours signing shoes. For a woman who confessed that she was “just a housewife,” Christian Louboutin signed the sole, TO MY FAVORITE HOT HOUSEWIFE. A blushing bride asked him to sign her wedding shoes, and he grabbed a blue pen and wrote, HERE IS SOMETHING BLUE.

According to Saks’ fashion director’ Michael Fink, Christian Louboutin’s shoes–which retail on average for $800–are one of the store’s top-selling brands. “It’s the mystique of the extremely sexy pump,” says Fink. “And, of course, the subtle branding of the red sole really helps.”

More than a cunning marketing concept, the red sole was a happy accident. While working on a prototype in his studio in his early designing days, Christian Louboutin searched for a way to match the shoe to a colorful sketch. “Something was missing, and I couldn’t figure it out,” he remembers. “Then I realized that the black sole of the shoe was too dark.” So he grabbed a bottle of red nail polish from an assistant who was doing her nails nearby and painted the soles. “It didn’t take me long to learn from my customers that the red soles were very popular with men,” Louboutin says, laughing. “This red sole was a bit of a green light.”

While women have always been his predominant inspiration, Christian Louboutin, a landscape and garden fanatic, often looks to nature for ideas. Starting out, he tried covering his shoes in fish scales. Another, more successful idea was embedding hydrangea petals in a clear silicone heel. He even tapped into the recycling trend with his “trash” shoes, which incorporated old métro tickets and café receipts in the heels. “He looks at everything,” says his close friend Diane von Furstenberg. “His shoes are like sculptures, objects, jewels.” But Christian Louboutin knows that women’s most desired treasures are the ones they can wear.

Even those who haven’t heard of Christian Louboutin have seen his shoes.

They’re marked by his trademark red sole, the result of a lucky experiment with a Mary Jane and a bottle of nail polish many years ago.

Now he’s the world-renowned designer of haute heels favored by the rich and famous. Cate Blanchett, a die-hard fan, donned a pair of Louboutin’s 4-inch silver stilettos for this year’s Oscars, despite being pregnant. Oprah so adores her Louboutins that she wore a flawlessly unscuffed pair during a recent interview with “freegans,” people who refuse to pay for anything, let alone an $800 pair of heels.

“Owning his shoes is just a wonderful wink for a woman,” says Louboutin’s friend and frequent collaborator, designer Diane von Furstenberg. “It’s just a very fun thing for a woman to do.”

On Monday, the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology opens “Sole Desire,” an exhibition of the designer’s work with pairs of shoes culled from the school’s collection and from Louboutin’s own archive.

But just because he has become, literally, a museum piece, don’t think that Louboutin’s characteristic mix of sex, style and humor is about to be shelved.

“In designing shoes for myself,” he says on the phone from Paris, “I’m not thinking of a specific person or catwalk. I’m just not thinking of clothes at all. I’m always thinking of a naked woman, actually.”

Naked women, as it happens, were one of the designer’s first inspirations. In interviews, he’s described his formative years with a mixture of vice and high society that could be Dickensian if it wasn’t so utterly French.

Born in 1963, he was barely tall enough to see over the bar counter when he began roaming the storied nightlife of 1970s Paris and ogling the dancers in cabarets. “His passion for dancing and showgirls increasingly disrupted his schoolwork,” reads one passage from his online bio.

He freelanced for design houses as famous as Chanel and Yves Saint-Laurent before netting a gig with footwear specialist Roger Vivier in 1988. Vivier was some 40 years his senior, and working with the master taught Louboutin, as Louboutin would later say, that “shoe design was a real métier” — in other words, his dream job.

His fascination with the stiletto ­started early. Fashion legend dictates that as a teenager, Louboutin was strolling through Paris when he noticed a sign prohibiting high heels in the Museum of Oceanic Art, lest they scratch the floors.

In 1992, he opened his first boutique in Paris and filled it with heels so dangerously pointy they verged on scandalous.